Southern Cambodia: Enchanting Island Adventures and Wild Jungle Escapes
First Leg: Song Saa
After an hour’s speedboat ride from Phenom Penn, we arrive with great anticipation to the private island of Song Saa. The cheerful staff greets us like long-lost friends, waving enthusiastically from the shore. “Look mom, it’s just like White Lotus without the crazy guests,” Roxy remarks, scanning our fellow travelers. I take a quick inventory of the boat and breathe a sigh of relief, no murderers in sight. “Well, let’s hope,” I replied, half-joking.
Once we meet the hotel manager—who could easily star in an episode of White Lotus—we are whisked away to our luxurious over-the-water bungalow. The room is expansive, sumptuous and romantic, featuring floor-to-ceiling French doors that open onto our private plunge pool, a cozy daybed, and the sea beyond. As the sun begins its descent, colorful fishing boats dance on the horizon, and birds fly overhead in flawless formation. Roxy and I exchange wide-eyed looks, feeling as though we have stumbled upon a hidden gem, we want to keep all to ourselves. But here we are, sharing it with the world through this blog!
Floating on our backs in the magical luminescent waters, Roxy and I gaze at the stars above and below. In Cambodia’s archipelago, the biodiverse marine life sparkles like a treasure trove. It is the perfect way to kick off our adventure in this enchanting part of the world
We lounge under crisp white paper umbrellas on 5 Mile Beach, a stretch of pristine white sand only accessible by boat from our hotel. The water shimmers in shades of turquoise. It’s warm, shallow and clear to the bottom. The sand is so white and so clean that when you walk on it, it squeaks under your feet. On our way to this paradise, we snorkeled among vibrant parrot fish, tiger fish, and a kaleidoscope of tiny creatures weaving through coral.
After our long walk and swim, we indulge in a traditional Cambodian lunch served in stacked steel baskets. Inside, we discover grilled shrimp, succulent chicken, tender pepper steak, and a fresh salad. For dessert, we savor juicy mango, papaya, and watermelon, all washed down with crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Roxy couldn’t contain her excitement: “How is it possible that there are so few people here and no other boats? I feel like we’ve discovered something totally hidden from the rest of the world.”
As New Year’s Eve arrives, we are treated to a traditional jungle party. Tables adorned with paper lanterns and twinkling lights are set beneath the palm trees. The air is alive with music as we sample local delicacies, including an adventurous platter of grilled tarantulas and ant salad—surprise! —which we think is just a regular salad until we crunch into the little critters. After that, the seated dinner is a breeze—we dive into fresh fish paired with lovely vegetables while Cambodian acrobats entertain us. Just before midnight, we dance on the beach with new friends from Madrid, sipping champagne and gin and tonics until the wee hours of the morning.
On our final night, I spot a spider the size of my hand on the jungle trail back to our room. “Roxy, look at this amazing spider!” I exclaim, shining my torch on the creature. Roxy, however, is less than impressed. “Mom, I don’t need to see that,” she replies. Then, I spot an 8-inch centipede shimmying across the gravel. Just another Indiana Jones moment that Roxy would rather avoid. We are on an island in the heart of an archipelago, after all; creepy crawlers are the norm at night. Fortunately, we are escorted by a Power Ranger wielding a machete. Up ahead he points out a patch of crawling ants, and when we tell him that we accidentally ate some, and didn’t love it, he shares with us that it isn’t the season for them to lay eggs. “OK, good,” Roxy replied, visibly relieved.
Second Leg: Shanti Mani Wild
Our adventure continues as our driver awaits us at the dock in Phenom Penn to take us to Shanti Mani Wild, an all-inclusive resort in Cambodia’s Cardamon Mountains. The landscape transforms into a wild, untamed terrain thick with vegetation. Upon arriving at the resort’s chic security entrance, we switch from an air-conditioned SUV to an open-air deep green Jeep, bumping along the road until we reach a towering platform. After climbing several stories, we clip on helmets and zipline gear, soaring over the dense treetops, gliding above a waterfall, and flying over a river before landing at the hotel bar, where refreshing cocktails await us.
Everything is included: unlimited food, cocktails, wine, spa treatments and adventure activities. “Can I see the spa menu?” Roxy asks. She orders up two 60-minute massages for us. But first, there’s lunch in the terraced restaurant overlooking the waterfall. Roxy indulges in a noodle salad with duck confit, while I savor a delicious soup made with mung bean vermicelli, Bok choy, broccoli, green onion, and ground pork.
The nourishing food and deep massages work their magic, leaving us feeling as light as the noodles we just devoured. When I see Sam, I tell him how much we liked our treatments. “It’s remarkable how you feel like no one is here but you Sam, and the five other people that seem to attend to our every whim.” Sam beams with pride as he informs us, “Actually, Shanti Mani Wild has a staff of 131 people to serve our 30 guests.”
Each of the resort's 15 tents has a unique theme. Ours, aptly named “The Birders,” is a feast for the eyes. The covered deck features large, framed drawings of exotic local birds, a well-stocked bar with crystal-cut glasses, a plush down-stuffed sofa, a hefty wooden dining table, a white porcelain clawfoot tub, and even a bronze telescope. The spacious bedroom boasts a king-size bed draped in sumptuous linens, leather butterfly chairs facing a zip-down window overlooking the waterfall, a stylish dressing area, and a massive walk-in shower. “It’s like Animal Kingdom Luxury Edition, but without the animals,” Roxy quipped.
The following morning, we embark on a three-hour hike through the jungle and over rolling hills. It feels as though we are traversing five different landscapes—each more breathtaking than the last. We splash beneath a waterfall cascading into a shallow pool of black volcanic rock. Towards the end of our hike, we nearly have a close encounter with a spider, but we made it back safely to the platform, zipping back to lunch.
Afterwards, we join the rangers on patrol, ready to catch those who dare to cut down trees and trap the endangered sun bear. Riding on motorbikes, we zip through the village, zooming past shops selling Cambodian snacks, water, and beer. The two-story wooden houses painted in cobalt blue, crimson red, and sunflower yellow stand proudly, each adorned with a dollhouse-sized temple on tall poles—a Hindu Buddhist tradition for offering to ancestral spirits.
Children play joyfully in their yards, while water buffalo wallowed in mud nearby. Once in the jungle, we halt the bikes to discover fresh-cut trees oozing sap—a heartbreaking sight. The head ranger assured us they will be waiting to apprehend the offenders who would surely return tonight for their contraband.
As our dedicated butler, Sam gives us his undivided attention. Anticipating what we might like to do based on our interests, he’s arranged a delightful cruise down the Soe Amble River in a pontoon boat. Sam remembers how much I love the hotel’s noodle soup and packs it on the boat to serve for breakfast. Sipping tea and coffee as we leisurely float down the river, we eventually pull-out chopsticks and enjoy our soup from cheerful yellow tin camping bowls. Hours pass as we admire the scenery, soak in the river life, sunbathe, read, and eventually take a refreshing swim.
To top off our day, we treat ourselves to two hours of back-to-back massages and facials in our tent. All spa treatments are included, which means unlimited use of the most talented and beautiful therapist. During our stay we indulge in a foot massage while having cocktails, and back and shoulder massage next to the waterfall, all while wishing we had time for more treatments using indigenous ingredients.
On our final day at the resort, Sam arranges a private yoga class with Kelly, who just so happened to hail from my hometown of Cleveland, Ohio. We practice on a shaded platform overlooking the falls, the gentle sound of water and Kelly’s calming energy provide the perfect start to our long journey back to the States.
