Australia: The Land of Giants and Big Flavors

People are tall in Australia.  I’m looking up at everyone I meet. Where do they get their height?  When I pose this question to a few kind-hearted Aussies, they tell me that children receive better nutrition at a young age. I believe it. Traveling around the continent, my sweetheart Brian and I eat beautifully inventive fresh food caught, farmed or ranched less than 45 kilometers away of where we are dining.  And that is a surprise, because let’s face it, food isn’t the first thing you think of when you travel to Australia. Koalas, yes. Food, no.  

When we land in Melbourne, we are ferociously hungry. So, along with Brian and our dear friends Deb and Dan, we drop our bags at the United Places Hotel Botanic Gardens and take an Uber headed to the heart of lively Lygon Street. At Piccolo Mondo, a traditional Italian trattoria run by a husband-and-wife team, I order fresh scallops in their shells seasoned simply with olive oil and garlic. My dining companions revel in crispy chicken parmesan and seafood pasta. Everyone at the table is swooning over their meal. It’s so delicious, we honestly can’t believe we are in Little Italy, and not in Rome. With each bite and sip of Pinot Grigio, our jetlag melts away. We walk off our lunch at the National Gallery of Victoria, the most visited museum in Australia. First paying tribute to Jeff Koons’ Venus who graces the lobby, we breeze through the galleries, which are free to the public.

Hipster culture, croissants and coffee collide in Fitzroy.  The oldest neighborhood in Melbourne, Fitzroy is a mosaic of garden-lined residential streets, flea markets, thrift stores, and eateries.  Urban gritty meets antique chic, the area boasts warehouses and factories made modern next to tiny terrace cottages. It’s the first stop on our tour arranged by the travel team at Uncharted.  We need coffee and our guide Nico suggests Industry Beans.  He orders a “magic” for each of us, a latte made with ristretto and oat milk. It’s smooth and delicious.  When we arrive at Lune, the Instagram-worthy croissant bakery, the queue is wrapping around the block. Inside, there’s a mind-boggling array of flavors and stuffings ranging from almond, ham and greyer to chocolate. My gluten-free regiment goes out the window as I bite into the flaky, paper-thin pastries. Each layer melts in my mouth with the filling hitting my taste buds like a sweet and savory tsunami.  After doing some thrifting, I ask my companions to describe what they think of Fitzroy. I get a series of contrasting answers. Sincere, but not too honest. Exciting, but with control. Absorbing, without being selfish. Approachable, without being too pushy. This banter is proof the jetlag has returned, and we laugh all the way to lunch.

In the CBD (a.k.a. Central Business District), Hozier Lane is covered with graffiti. Artists spray paint as tourists crowd the narrow alley stopping and posing for photos. I spot a young man putting the finishing touches on a white dove clutching a Palestinian flag. The artist is on a short ladder shaking a can and spraying red paint on the wall to represent blood running out of the dove’s eyes. I am shaken, but push on. Around the corner, we have lunch at Supernormal, an Asian fusion eatery. The duck confit smothered in five spice powder is not to be believed, the mushroom dumplings are delicate and light, kingfish sashimi in ponzu is perfection. It’s a triumph. We finish the day at the South Melbourne Market, where there is a manageable array of stalls ranging from crafts and clothing to locally caught fish. I opt for a tray of steamed crab legs. All these babies need is a squeeze of lemon to bring out the sweet, succulent flavor.  

In the morning, we walk through the Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria located across the street from our hotel. With flat whites in hand, the classic Aussie coffee creation, we wander through changing landscapes, marveling at all the different species of beautiful trees. In one moment, we are inside a jungle with a hidden waterfall, in the next moment, we are in a manicured English garden. There are ducks paddling on a large lake. Benches are arranged romantically under a weeping willow. Around the bend, a dock appears next to a restaurant with large windows. We see a sign offering “punting” on the lake. Alas, we have run out of time, but we make a note to revisit the Gardens one day and spend time on the water. 

On Kangaroo Island, we are lavished in luxury. After a two-hour and thirty-minute flight from Melbourne and an hour-long drive from the airport, we arrive at The Southern Ocean Lodge, an architectural wonder painstakingly rebuilt after the bushfires of 2020. The large modern rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows that frame a breathtaking view of the rough sea. This is an all-inclusive resort, and many activities are offered to us. We choose the excursion to Remarkable Rocks. You might ask what makes these rocks so remarkable?  They have been carved into startling shapes by over 500 years by wind, rain and sea salt.  The resulting granite boulders are massive in size and covered in a blanket of golden orange lichen.  Another feature of this tour is a thriving colony of adorable long-nose fur seals who don’t seem to mind that we’ve come to watch them swim and play on the beach. Back at the Lodge, we meet Sol, the resident kangaroo, who standing on his hind legs is the same height as Brian. After a costume change, we mingle with the other guests at the hotel’s communal bar. Over a bottle of crisp Australian white wine and local cuisine, we put the perfect finishing touch on a wild and wonderful day.   

I’ve been dreaming of holding a Koala. Without my knowing, Brian arranges a private tour to the Kangaroo Island Animal Park, an animal reserve that successfully rescued over 600 animals during the bushfires of 2020 that ravaged Kangaroo Island.  The animals came through in need of critical care for burns, dehydration and starvation.  Most were released into the wild, but some of the injured and orphaned animals remain in the park. In a private moment, I am given a eucalyptus branch and asked to hold a koala named Pearl.  She snuggles in next to me and gently chews the sweet-smelling leaves. I nestle my nose into her cotton-soft fur, breathe her in and instantly fall in love. I am surprised and moved by Brian’s generosity and my eyes well-up with tears of joy. This is the moment that defines why I’ve ventured so far. 

The next stop is Great Barrier Reef. One of the seven natural wonders of the world, it covers 5% of the ocean but holds 45% of all marine life.  We are eager to get out on the water and see what’s below, but first there’s the requisite welcome drink and itinerary review, which takes place in the open-air lobby of Qualia, a world-class resort on Hamilton Island. As we get the lay of the land (and sea) over bottomless glasses of Australian sparkling wine, I can’t help but marvel at the long blue lap pool, swaying palm trees and picture postcard view in front of us. We are given our own golf carts and keys to sumptuous bungalows. Quickly, we change into our swimsuits and tuck in a half-day snorkeling tour. Among an array of colorful fish, we spot a sea turtle and follow it--watching it closely as it elegantly flies through the water. 

Back on the boat, we ask our guide about the bleached coral. He tells us it’s naturally occurring but happening at an alarming rate. Coral can regenerate, but because of the rising temperatures in the water, it’s very stressed out and that’s why the coral is colorless. Efforts are being made to add hardier species of coral to the water that can stand the higher temperatures, but it may be too late, and we are lucky to be here and swim through and alongside large schools of fish. The following day, we do a day-long snorkel that takes us further out on the reef. We see loads of colorful coral and a riot of fish of every size and species.  It’s mind-blowing and psychedelic. As rain falls on my back, I encounter a four-foot-long parrot fish. He’s looking right at me with his tiny fins fanning in a gesture that feels like he’s waving hello. When Brian and I swim to the surface, he tells me this is the best diving of his life. It’s a top-of-the-bucket-list moment, and we’re grateful to experience it, together.

Excitement builds as we fly over Sydney.  Looking out the airplane window, we can see why people say that this is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  There’s beaches and harbors, a mix of Victorian and modern buildings, lots of green space and of course, the world famous Sydney Opera House.  When we check into the gorgeous Capella Hotel, we inform the concierge that we have tickets to the Opera. He tells us that we are in luck.  Vivid Sydney, an annual celebration, is happening all over the city and the iconic sails of the Opera are lit up along with many other sites. 

But first, we have to eat and Grana is making pasta and sourdough bread by hand in every shape you can imagine. Plus, they’re serving delicate roasted cabbage with black sesame seeds, brown butter and pepitas, charred broccoli with slivered almonds and shallots, and chicken cacciatore that’s actually grilled, topped with slivered salami and chunky tomatoes. There’s also duck ragu ladled over pasta and giant prawns topped with breadcrumbs, garlic and olive oil. Rick is our server, and he helps us navigate the menu expertly with flawless results. We float out of Grana and over to the Opera. At every turn, we see animation projected on to buildings. The world-famous Sydney Harbor Bridge is a glow—a spectacle of lights and video. 

We spend the day on Sydney Harbor aboard a yacht. After a glorious buffet breakfast at the Capella, we meet up with our guides from Local Eyes and motor out on their private boat. It’s a perfect day to see the sites from the water and we quickly ease into the laidback rhythm that makes Sydney so inviting.  There’s a grill on board and at lunch time, we sit down to a feast of fresh fish, sliced steak, an assortment of salads and vegetables and of course, lots of crisp white Australian wine.  This is the best way to see Sydney’s most famous icons, secluded bays, pristine beaches and soak up the city’s spectacular views.

Back at the Capella, we workout in the hotel’s gleaming gym and relax by the indoor swimming pool equipped with hydro massage beds. The Capella is a destination in and of itself. Just the act of getting dressed in our elegant room feels luxurious. There’s also a sumptuous library where guests set up office, and the chic bar manned by Sonny the bartender who serves craft cocktails. After an aperitif, our happy crew ventures a few blocks over to Mr. Wong’s for crispy Peking duck and dim sum. The hype is real. Mr. Wong’s doesn’t disappoint. 

Over the course of the next two days, we have a dizzying amount of fun. We visit fashionable shops in Paddington—indulging in event-worthy fashion at the fabulously well-curated Parlour X.  We see the Sydney Jewish Museum and learn about the fascinating history of the Jewish prisoners that were brought to the city from England and the 27,000 Holocaust survivors who found safety here. We gallery hop and tour the indigenous art featured at the Sydney Biennale located inside the old and out-of-service White Bay Power Station. We walk from Bronte Beach to Bondi Beach and have a boozy lunch at the famed Icebergs overlooking the ocean, beach and sky. 

Our last meal is at Fratelli Paradiso an authentic Italian stalwart in Potts Point.  And what an ending it is. We are served two perfect salads: one of buffalo mozzarella, thinly sliced prosciutto, and fried pizza dough (don’t ask), and the other composed of radicchio, grapes, oranges and blue cheese. For mains, Brian enjoys rigatoni with anchovies and chicory, and I have a small hen with a Verde sauce of chopped garlic, preserved lemon and Italian parsley. The entire experience is delicious, charming, and terribly romantic.

We say goodbye to our friends and travel on to Tasmania. There’s nothing like waking up in Hobart with the sun rising over the wharf.  Our waterfront room at MACq 01 is the perfect spot to watch Tasmania’s biggest port come to life. Eager to breathe in clean air and see the town, I lace up my sneakers and walk up to historic Battery Park, a quaint maritime village.  There, I find streets lined with colonial homes adorned with wrought iron filigree railings and manicured gardens. After walking a good stretch, I meet Brian back at the hotel for breakfast, which is made to order, healthy and delicious. We spend the day at MONA: The Museum of New and Old Art, which is 20 minutes outside of Hobart. It’s like Meow Wolf meets The Whitney but with an x-rating. It feels daring, sexy and surreal. The installations, like the library filled with coverless books, only white dust jackets, makes you think. And that’s the point. Back in Hobart, Brian and I grab a picnic table at The Whaler, a pub established by a reverend in the early 1800’s. We talk about the virtues and vulgarities of the museum over bowls of fat mussels and skinny fries.   

In this Land of Giants, even the ferns are man-size.  I’m missing my daily hiking routine and the next morning I get my fix at Russell Falls where everything—the falls and the foliage are larger than life.  It’s autumn, so the forest is wet and lush, making all the colors pop. We love it. Back at the wharf, we are treated to a massive Saturday market that runs the full length of Hobart’s historic Salamanca Street. Stall after stall we find temptation in the local goods and hearty eats. Brian, the German that he is, goes for a brat. I set my sites on “scallops on a stick”—which is exactly as it sounds—about six scallops delicate and sweet served kabob-style hot off the grill. I also slurp down a dozen raw oysters from Bruny’s, a family run farm. Pause for oyster proclamation: the best in the world are right here in Tasmania. 

In the evening, our love affair with Australian food goes into high gear.  At Pepinna we come to realize that Tasmania may well be the country’s culinary capital. Brian indulges in gnocchi with mushrooms. On his plate are an assortment of local mushrooms in a silky Parmesan cream sauce made from a mushroom and beef stock reduction. I decide on the giant prawns and a pickled beet salad with hazelnuts and mozzarella. From the ambiance and excellent staff to the impeccable food, the whole experience is perfection.

After three days in Hobart, it’s time to see the heart of Tasmania. It’s a three-hour pure wilderness drive to Saffire Freycinet, an all-inclusive luxury resort. Before checking into our suite, we make two must-do stops, the first is to the kitchen at Freycinet Marine Farms for local seafood (harvested fresh daily), and a glass of Tasmanian wine on the farm’s deck. The second stop is a hike up to the lookout point at Wineglass Bay, where the view is awe-inspiring. We arrive at the resort dazzled by the beauty of the area and ready to drink in all that this stunning place has to offer. 

Saffire Freycinet is more than just a beautiful getaway; it’s also a culinary journey that far exceeds expectations. With 3,030 kilometers of coastline, stretching across five main islands, we expect great seafood from Tasmania, but the creativity and dedication of the chefs truly amazes me. Will, our server and knowledgeable sommelier, introduces us to a selection of exquisite Tasmanian wines, and we find ourselves particularly captivated by the dry Rieslings. The dishes are a revelation, too. At lunch, we enjoy king prawn tempura, and fish roasted in parchment paper with baby clams, capers, fennel, and garlic, all served alongside crispy chips and homemade tartar sauce. Each bite is sensational, a testament to the culinary artistry at Saffire.

The resort's commitment to unique experiences extends beyond the dining table. Perhaps our most memorable experience is returning to Marine Farms, this time for an oyster excursion. By the shore, we pull on waders and walk into the bay past rows of oyster baskets towards a table set-up in the water. As the sun sets, we savor dozens of fresh-shucked oysters with glasses of sparkling Tasmanian wine. Later that evening, we embark on a Tasmanian devil excursion, where we witness these fascinating carnivorous marsupials devour a wallaby carcass. It is horrifyingly entertaining, especially as they screech at each other in what sounds like toddlers having a playful argument. Before we head back to the resort, our guide tells us that a deadly cancer is threatening the greater population. Thankfully, Saffire is doing its part by caring for aging devils, feeding them regularly and monitoring their health.  

As our time in Australia ends, I can’t help but reflect on the myriads of experiences that have unfolded during our stay. The harmony of stunning landscapes, fascinating wildlife found nowhere else on earth, exquisite dining, and attentive service have woven together an unforgettable tapestry of memories. Each moment feels like a celebration of nature's bounty, complemented by the people who are not only very tall, but very warm, and truly made us feel at home. Every day was filled with delightful surprises, which kept my adventurous spirit alive. Above all, this trip to Australia deepened my love for Brian. As we drove from Great Oyster Bay to Hobart, we felt like two sparkling diamonds, shining together in this enchanting corner of the world.